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I've walked a few of the halls here in Barcelona to get the feel of the show. The weather is warm and sunny so it's easy to get distracted, but there are a few distinct themes emerging.
Firstly, the device world is clearly - and finally heading toward a touch screen smartphone led future for the high end. Some of these devices are very good - Nokia's 5800 looks very impressive and works well. The touch screen is quick to get used to and the full screen qwerty is well-implemented (bar the confirm key at the top left). These sort of devices are showing the way: the queue I saw in the HTC Android section is indicative of the interest.
Secondly, there's a lot of buzz around on-device portals and widgetry (like wizardry only less well defined). Ariel at Sun Microsystems showed a very nice Java implementation of their portal software and a lightweight client for mobile devices. Discoverability and Access to services is clearly important.
More later!

Barcelona blog: Into Hand